Pop rivets (also called blind rivets) are a quick, reliable way to join sheets when you only have access from one side. A mandrel pulls the rivet body, the body mushrooms on the blind side, the joint clamps up, and the mandrel snaps. Simple, strong, tidy.
Common pop rivet head styles:
- Dome head for general use
- Countersunk for a flush finish
- Large flange to spread load on softer materials
Material choices:
- Stainless steel for corrosion resistance and strength
- Aluminium for light duty and softer substrates
- Sealed (closed-end) to keep water out
Match materials where possible. For example, stainless rivets pop rivets with stainless or coated substrates help avoid galvanic corrosion outdoors.
What you need to install pop rivets
- Drill and the correct bit size
- Pop riveter: hand, long-arm lever, lazy-tongs, or cordless battery riveter
- Rivets with a grip range that matches your material thickness
- Safety glasses and hearing protection
Picking the right size
- Rivet diameter: larger diameters give higher shear strength.
- Grip range: the rivet’s working thickness window. Measure your stacked materials with callipers and choose a rivet whose grip range covers that figure.
- Drill size: typically the same as the rivet body diameter or up to 0.1 mm larger for clean insertion.
Pop Rivet Drill Bit Quick Reference (Metric):
| Rivet body | Drill bit size | Notes |
| 3mm | 3mm | 3.5 mm only if there’s thick paint or powder coat. |
| 3.2mm | 3.5mm | Nearest half-step. Gives a clean, snug fit. |
| 4.0mm | 4.0mm | 4.5 mm only if coating makes insertion tight. |
| 4.8mm | 5.0mm | Standard choice for 4.8 mm blind rivets. |
| 5.0mm | 5.0mm | 5.5 mm only if the hole is slightly damaged or heavily coated |
| 6.0mm | 6.0mm | 6.5 mm if you need a touch more clearance. |
How to install pop rivets (step by step)
Mark and clamp
Mark hole positions. Clamp the work to stop chatter and misalignment.
Drill the holes
Use the correct bit from the table. Keep the drill square to the surface. Deburr both sides so the rivet seats cleanly.
Dry fit
Slide a rivet in. It should be a snug, finger-push fit. Too tight and you risk deforming the hole. Too loose and the joint will rattle.
Load the riveter
Insert the mandrel into the tool jaws until the head sits against the tool nose.
Set the rivet
Hold the tool flush to the surface and squeeze (hand/lever tools) or trigger (battery tool). You’ll feel the joint tighten as the blind side mushrooms. The mandrel will snap with a pop.
Check the set
The head should sit flat. On the blind side you should see a neat, formed bulb. If the mandrel tail is proud on the visible side, snip it and file flush if needed.
Tips for stronger, cleaner joints
- Use backing washers on soft or thin materials to spread the load.
- For weather-exposed joints, choose sealed rivets and a dab of sealant in the hole.
- Space rivets evenly. As a rule of thumb, edge distance ≈ 2× rivet diameter, and pitch (spacing between rivets) ≈ 6–10× diameter depending on load.
Troubleshooting installs
- Rivet spins in the hole: Hole is oversize or material is too soft. Step up to large-flange rivets or add a backing washer.
- Loose joint after setting: Grip range too long for the stack thickness. Re-rivet with a shorter grip range or larger diameter.
- Mandrel jams in the tool: Open the jaws and clear swarf. Worn jaws need replacing.
- Cracked surface or “smile” marks: Burrs under the head or the tool wasn’t square. Deburr and keep the nosepiece flat.
How to remove pop rivets (cleanly)
You can remove a pop rivet without enlarging the parent hole if you take your time.
You’ll need: a centre punch, drill, and a bit the same size as the rivet’s mandrel head or body.
- Centre punch the mandrel. This keeps the bit on target.
- Drill the head only. Use a bit the same size as the rivet body (e.g. 4.8 mm bit for a 4.8 mm rivet). Drill straight until the factory head comes free. Do not push through the sheet.
- Pop the body out. Once the head lifts, the remaining rivet body will either fall through or can be pushed out with a punch.
- Clean up. Deburr the hole lightly. If you have accidentally opened it up a touch, step up to the next rivet size or use a repair washer on the blind side.
Alternatives for awkward spots
- Left-hand drill bits sometimes grab the mandrel and spin it out while removing the head.
- Small chisel can shear the head off in a pinch, but risks scratching the surface. Only use where appearance is not critical.
Safety and good practice
- Wear eye protection. Mandrels snap under tension and can ping.
- Keep hands clear of the nosepiece.
- Sweep up mandrel tails. They are easy to step on and surprisingly sharp.
- If working at height, tether your tool and collect mandrels in a catcher bottle.
When to choose stainless steel pop rivets
- Coastal, outdoor and wet areas
- Food, marine and hygiene-critical settings
- Applications that see vibration and need long service life
Stainless gives you better corrosion resistance and consistent clamp over time. If you are pairing stainless rivets with aluminium sheet, consider a barrier layer or sealant to minimise dissimilar-metal corrosion.
FAQs
How tight should a rivet feel after setting?
Firm with no play. If you can twist the sheets against each other, the grip range or diameter is wrong.
Can I reuse a hole after removing a rivet?
Yes, if you drilled carefully. Deburr and re-rivet. If the hole has opened up, step up one size.
What tool should I buy?
For occasional jobs, a hand riveter is fine for 3.2 and 4.0 mm. For regular work or larger diameters like 4.8 and 6.4 mm, a long-arm or cordless riveter saves time and your forearms.
Do I need sealant?
If you want it watertight, yes. Use a small dab in the hole or choose closed-end rivets.
Fixabolt supply a range of stainless steel pop rivets ranging in size from 3mm to 6mm.